
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
In fact, in an ideal situation we would like to talk to you before you
get your puppy to help you choose a breed which fits your lifestyle. Since
this rarely happens in "real life", we feel our guidance can be a crucial
part of your puppy's first few months, while he or she is rapidly becoming
a cherished part of your family. In most cases, you will be visiting us
several times during your puppy's first few months so we would like you to
feel comfortable asking questions - just remember, that's why we're here!
You'll soon learn there is a lot for us to talk about during your puppy
visits.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
Settling in
Your home will seem very strange toyour new puppy, so give him time to get to know his new surroundings.
Remember that although puppies love to play they need a quiet place to retreat to and to sleep.


Socialisation
A well socialised puppy will be able to cope with all of the situations he’s likely to encounter in later life, rather than
growing up shy or fearful. During the early weeks and months, introduce your puppy to a variety
of sights, sounds, people and experiences. Let him meet adults and children, the postman, the milkman and
any visitors, approaching them in his own time. Never force the issue if he’s not confident.
If you have friends with dogs which have been vaccinated and are good with puppies, let him meet them to help
him to build up his canine social skills. Don’t take your dog out on to pavements, parks or gardens, which
may have been soiled by other animals, until he has completed his
initial course of vaccinations.

Feeding your puppy
Wait until your puppy has settled in before making any changes to his
diet, to reduce the risk of stomach upsets. After a few days you can
introduce a new food, gradually mixing an increasing proportion of it into the
puppy’s food over about a week. Initially he’ll need 3 or 4 small meals
per day of a good quality complete puppy food. Follow the guidelines on
the packaging or ask Abbey Vets for advice if you’re uncertain. This can then
be reduced to fewer meals a day as he gets older. By the time he is about
10–12 months old – unless he’s a giant breed, which have special
requirements – he should be able to move on to an adult diet.
Dog foods are broadly divided into two kinds – dry and moist such as cans and pouches. Provided that
you get the correct food for his age, the choice of the food for your puppy
is down to you and your pet.
Basic training
You should begin your puppy’s training as soon as you bring him home. When
he is older, enrol in a puppy training class to learn how to teach him simple
commands. Ask your Abbey Vets for details of local training classes and always
ask if you can observe a class before enrolling.
When training your puppy at home make sure that everyone in the family
uses the same commands. Keep training sessions for young puppies
short and fun.
Exercise and play
Young puppies generally get all the exercise they need by racing around
the garden and playing, but once yourpuppy is fully vaccinated you can take
him for short walks away from home. This will help to familiarise him with
different environments. The age at which ‘real’ exercise should
begin varies from breed to breed, as does the amount. Abbey Vets will be able
to advise you. Make exercise fun by taking along a ball or a Kong toy, so that you can play
games. Avoid small balls which he could swallow, or sticks which could
lodge in his throat and injure him.
Play time
Your puppy doesn’t need expensive toys but make sure that anything you
do give him to play with is safe. If any toys become worn or damaged, replace
them. Don’t give him an old slipper to play with or he’ll think that all shoes
and slippers are fair game. Puppies’ minds need exercise as well
as their bodies, so play games that make him think. He’ll enjoy Hide and
Seek, and “retrieve” games.
Grooming
Establish a grooming routine as soon as you bring your puppy home. Not only
will it give you the opportunity to remove dead hairs from his coat, grooming also
reinforces the bond between you. Grooming sessions also give you the
chance to check for fleas and ticks, and to examine your puppy’s coat, paws,
eyes, ears and mouth for anything that might require a trip to Abbey Vets.
Make grooming sessions short at first as puppies will soon become bored.
The amount of time you will need to spend on grooming depends on his
type of coat and how dirty he gets while he is being exercised. For bathing your puppy,
use only a puppy shampoo as our shampoo can irritate their skin.
Dental care
Your puppy needs your help to keep his teeth in good condition. Puppies’
baby teeth (deciduous teeth) appear at around 4–6 weeks of age, and are
replaced by the adult teeth by 6–7 months. If any deciduous teeth don’t
fall out naturally, Abbey Vets will need to extract them to prevent the adult teeth
from coming through crooked.
If your dog needs a dental procedure he will need a general anaesthetic. His
teeth will be scaled and polished, and any bad teeth will be removed. Don’t
be concerned that he won’t be able to eat if teeth are extracted – dogs’ gums
are very hard and he will still be able to munch dry food without problems.
If your dog is having difficulty eating, has smelly breath,
appears to be chewing on one side of his mouth, or paws at his mouth, he
could have a dental problem, so make an appointment to see one of our Vets
as soon as possible.
Vaccinations
Vaccination protects your puppy from
a number of serious and highly
infectious diseases. It works by priming
his immune system so that if he comes
into contact with the disease later, his
body is better able to ‘fight back’.
All puppies and dogs should be
vaccinated against:
These vaccinations are given
at approximately 8 weeks with a
follow-up dose around 2 weeks later. Your puppy will
be protected a week after second vaccination.
After this he’ll need annual booster
vaccinations, to maintain his protection.
Annual vaccinations also provide an
opportunity for Abbey Vets to give your pet
a thorough health check to spot any
possible problems early on.

Fleas and other external parasites
Most puppies pick up fleas at some time. Abbey Vets can advise you on
products to treat your pet and your home (to kill eggs and larvae in the
puppy’s bedding, the carpets, and soft furnishings).
Fleas cause discomfort, and may also spread disease and cause allergies.
Severe infestation can also cause anaemia, particularly in very young
puppies.
Many people choose to apply regular anti-flea treatment to their dogs (e.g.
once a month), to prevent fleas rather than waiting until there is an unpleasant
flea problem to fix in their homes.
Worms and worming
Any dog can pick up worms, and puppies may even be born with them
or pick them up from their mother’s milk. Puppies should be regularly
wormed and our vets and nurses will be able to discuss a programme for treatment and
prevention.
A heavy infestation of worms can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, loss of appetite,
weight loss, constipation and a dull coat. Some worms can be passed to
humans, especially young children.
The main types of worms are:
Neutering
If you don’t plan to breed from your dog, having him or her neutered is
the responsible thing to do. As well as preventing unwanted litters, neutering
reduces the risk of a number of health problems, removes the dog’s sexual
urges and can also resolve or prevent some problem behaviours.
Puppies are generally neutered between 6 and 9 months old.
The procedure in male puppies is called castration and involves removing
the testicles, which produce sperm and the male hormone, testosterone. It is
a straightforward operation performed under general anaesthetic.
The operation for female dogs is called spaying or “ovariohysterectomy”.
During the operation, the vet makes an incision in the dog’s abdomen and
removes the ovaries and the uterus (womb). Spaying is a longer operation
than castration and the puppy or dog will need a couple of days’ rest. She
may need to wear an ‘Elizabethan collar’ to prevent her from licking her
wound excessively.
Microchipping
Your puppy needs to have a means of identification in case he becomes lost
– it’s the law.
Get him used to wearing a collar with an engraved identification tag
on it and also think about having him microchipped. Microchipping is an
efficient and irreversible means of identification and your vet will be able
to carry this out for you. The cost of this procedure is £15 and this can be
performed by a nurse or vet. A tiny microchip -the size of a grain of
rice- is injected under the skin at the back of the neck in a simple
procedure. Each chip has a unique number which is stored on a central
computer database. If your dog is found, his chip can be quickly read with
a hand held scanner and the number checked against the database. Microchipping
is an important part of the Pets Passport scheme, which can allow you to take
your pet abroad.
Pet insurance
It’s a good idea to take out pet insurance so that you won’t need to
worry about vet’s bills if your puppy has an accident or becomes ill. In
return for small monthly or annual payments the insurance company will
pay for most of your veterinary fees – including the cost of operations,
medicines, laboratory tests and x-rays.
Routine procedures like vaccination, teeth cleaning and neutering are
not covered by insurance, nor are preventive measures such as worming
or flea treatments. Shop around when you buy a policy,
as policies vary and different levels of cover are available. More expensive
policies generally provide increased cover and some cover a wider variety
of treatments such as homoeopathy and acupuncture.
Check on the exclusion clauses before buying an insurance policy. You will
probably find that conditions (and possibly related conditions) which
existed before taking out the policy will not be covered. You may also find that
some companies will cover a condition for only 12 months, while others
continue paying year after year up to a maximum amount in any year.
Most insurance policies include third party insurance in case your dog
injures someone or causes an accident.