This web page is dedicated to bunnys. It covers topics on :

Diet and Dental Disease,    Common Infectious Disease,    Fly Strike,    Neutering,    Anaesthetics,    Vaccinations,   

Dental Disease

Dental disease is a very common problem with rabbits. Rabbit teeth are unlike dog, cat and our own teeth as they grow constantly. They are kept healthy by the constant chewing action which causes the upper and lower teeth to rub together as the rabbit chews. This keeps the teeth rubbed down to the correct level. Problems occur when this natural grinding system fails.
This may be as a result of a rabbit with a slightly deformed jaw which means that the upper and lower teeth do not meet completely. This common problem which can't be avoided by the pet owner as the rabbit is born with this condition. In wild rabbits these rabbits would not survive.

However an avoidable reason for rabbit dental disease is INAPPROPRIATE DIET. Wild rabbits graze on grass and young shoots. They are constantly chewing low fat high fibre diets. This constant chewing keep their teeth healthy. Modern "Rabbit foods" are too high in fat and too low in fibre compared with the natural alternative.

Burgess Rabbit food available at Abbey Vets Good Quality Hay available at Abbey Vets

Consequently the rabbit chew less to receive the same amount of calories. Less chewing means less grinding and eventually the teeth become overgrown. This then requires dentistry.

This problem can be reduced, if not completely avoided, by a proper diet - low in fat and high in fibre - as natural as possible. Most owners feed their rabbits on "Rabbit Food" and supplement this with vegetables and green from the garden. A better diet would be one that resembles more closely the natural diet of the rabbit - consisting of grass, good quality hay, greens and vetetables - supplemented with "Rabbit Food" in times of need.

Dogs and cats are not the only animals which need to be vaccinated, rabbits are also important! The two main viruses which can effect rabbits are Myxomatosis, & Viral Haemorrhagic Disease. Both these viruses are potential killers to the pet (and house) rabbit if left unvaccinated.

Myxomatosis is carried by rabbit fleas and other blood sucking insects. Once infected the symptoms can include swelling around the eyes, nose and lips which progresses to blindness, and even with medication most rabbits die. Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) can be spread through contaminated hutches, bedding, food or even on your clothing. This disease can also survive for months, and once infected rabbits quickly deteriorate and die.

It is important to perform a thorough health check on a daily basis, as this can often help in spotting any problems. It is also a good opportunity for you to groom your rabbit as this also identifies problems but also helps you and your rabbit to bond. The following list is a ‘top ten’ health check for you to do at home;

  • Check ears for discharge, flaking or scaly patches.
  • Watery discharge from eyes / nose.
  • If food is half eaten or left this can indicate overgrown teeth, infections or digestive disorders.
  • Wet chin, or front paws which can often be caused from dental problems.
  • Loss of fur, and sores on rabbits feet.
  • Overgrown nails.
  • Wounds, swellings or parasites.
  • Faeces or urine stains around the rear end.
  • Unusual appearance or behaviour, for example; glazed look, loud grinding of the teeth.
  • Changes in droppings.

    Vaccinations

    Should I have my rabbit vaccinated?
    Your rabbit should be vaccinated routinely against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) every year and Myxomatosis every six months. Both these viral diseases can be rapidly fatal in an unvaccinated rabbit and there are no cures once infected. The only protection you can give your rabbit is vaccination.

    VHD is spread by direct contact between rabbits (both wild and domesticated) but also via indirect contact such as from people, clothing, on shoes, other objects and fleas. Myxomatosis is spread by fleas or other biting insects and is transmitted in this way from wild to pet rabbits.

    Myxomatosis vaccination can be given as early as 6 weeks old and VHD vaccination from 8 weeks onwards, but is usually given at 10-12 weeks. Unfortunately both vaccinations cannot be given at the same time. A minimum 14 day interval is recommended between the two injections. Boosters are given every 6-12 months for myxomatosis, depending on the incidence of the disease in the local area. Abbey Vets will advise you of the optimum booster interval. Boosters are given annually for VHD

    FLYSTRIKE

    This is a common problem during the summer months, and it must be treated as soon as it is noticed. Flystrike often affects rabbits which may have temporary loose stools, elderly or overweight rabbits which are unable to clean themselves. Flies are attracted to open wounds, and thick matted fur which is dampened with urine. This is where the flies lay their eggs, and in turn hatch into maggots. The maggots don’t just stop on the surface as once the external debris is consumed they start on the healthy flesh, often where they cannot be seen. Once in the flesh toxins are produced which in turn causes the rabbit to go into shock. Symptoms can include ‘itchy’ skin which is initially followed by damp fur which has a distinct odour when the fur is parted. Listlessness is also another symptom and immediate attention should be sought. Treatment is dependent on how far the infestation has progressed, but the sooner the problem is identified the better the chances of recovery are. To help prevent your rabbit from Flystrike there are a few basic rules to stick to;

  • Keep your rabbit dry, bathing the whole of your rabbit is not often necessary. Spot cleaning is much easier in you only clean the offending area.
  • Trimming or shaving the areas under your rabbit which tend to stay damp is often a good idea, and it is also easier to monitor these areas.
  • Cleaning the hutch out on a more regular basis during the summer months. This helps to prevent your rabbit from sitting where he/she has urinated.
  • Regular use of 'REARGUARD'. This is a sponge-on liquid which prevents maggots developing on the coat.

    NEUTERING

    Neutering is one of the best things you can do to help your rabbit live a long and happy life. Sexual maturity is reached from as early as three months of age and it is important for rabbits to be housed separate to prevent unwanted litters. It is possible to spay female rabbits from five to six months of age, depending on the breed. This will prevent unwanted litters, and reduces the chances of your rabbit suffering from other known medical conditions (for example; uterine tumours which are very common in the older rabbit).
    Male rabbits can be neutered from three to four months of age, depending on the breed. Neutering helps to eliminate the behaviour changes which are often associated with sexual maturity such as urine spraying and aggression. It can also be easier to litter train a neutered rabbit, and there will be less odour which is an important factor in the house rabbit.

    ANAESTHETICS

    Neutering, dentistry and other procedures involve giving your rabbit a general anaesthetic. This means bringing your rabbit in the morning of the operation for admission and collected that evening.
    Unlike with dogs and cats, rabbits DO NOT require a period of starvation before an anaesthetic. In fact it is VERY IMPORTANT that they continue to eat up until the time of their anaesthetic and resume eating on recovery. For this reason rabbits should not be starved prior to surgery and food should be left with them until they reach the surgery. We would also ask you bring in a sample of your rabbits favourite food that we can tempt them with on recovery. If following surgery your rabbit is not eating its normal amount, it is vital that your return you pet for a check up as failing to do so can leave it very ill.